Solid gold is jewellery made entirely of a gold alloy, such as solid 14k (58.3% pure gold) or solid 18k (75% pure gold). Gold filled has a thick gold layer (minimum 5% of total weight) mechanically bonded to a base metal core. Gold plated has a thin electroplated layer of gold (usually 0.05% or less) over a base metal. Vermeil is sterling silver coated with at least 2.5 microns of 10k-or-higher gold. Only solid gold lasts a lifetime. Gold filled lasts 10–30 years with care. Gold plated lasts a few months to a year. Vermeil lasts 2–5 years. At Vanhess, every piece is Canadian-made solid gold — no plating, no filling, no shortcuts.
What is solid gold?
Solid gold jewellery is made entirely of a gold alloy — the gold content goes all the way through the piece. It is the only form of gold jewellery that does not wear off, flake, or reveal a different metal underneath over time.
Pure gold (24k) is too soft for daily-wear jewellery. It dents, bends, and scratches from normal handling. So it is alloyed with harder metals — typically copper, silver, zinc, or palladium — to make durable jewellery alloys.
- Solid 24k gold: 100% pure gold. Very soft. Used in investment bars and some traditional cultural jewellery.
- Solid 18k gold: 75% pure gold, 25% other metals. Rich yellow colour, softer than 14k.
- Solid 14k gold: 58.3% pure gold, 41.7% other metals. Excellent balance of gold content, durability, and price. The standard for fine jewellery in North America.
- Solid 10k gold: 41.7% pure gold. The legal minimum to be called "gold" in the United States and Canada. Harder than higher karats but can tarnish over very long periods.
What is gold filled jewellery?
Gold filled jewellery has a gold layer mechanically bonded (under heat and pressure) to a base metal core, usually brass. To legally be called "gold filled" in the United States, the gold layer must weigh at least 5% (1/20) of the total metal weight and be at least 10k.
Gold filled is often labelled as 14/20 or 12/20, meaning the outer layer is 14k or 12k gold and accounts for 1/20 (5%) of the total weight. The layer is roughly 100 times thicker than gold plating.
Properly made gold filled jewellery can last 10 to 30 years before the outer layer wears down to the brass. It is a legitimate mid-tier option. It is not solid gold.
What is gold plated jewellery?
Gold plated jewellery is made by electrochemically depositing a very thin layer of gold — typically 0.17 to 2.5 microns, or about 0.05% of total weight — onto a base metal such as brass, copper, or nickel alloy.
The gold layer on plated jewellery is thin enough that it will wear off. Depending on the piece and how often it is worn, plated gold starts fading within a few months and is usually visibly worn through within one year of daily wear. Once the plating wears through, the base metal underneath is exposed, which can cause skin reactions and discolouration.
Gold plated jewellery is the cheapest form of "gold" jewellery sold. It is not solid gold, and it is not gold filled. It is base metal with a gold coating.
What is gold vermeil?
Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-MAY) is a specific type of gold plating with two legal requirements: the base metal must be sterling silver, and the gold layer must be at least 2.5 microns thick and at least 10k gold.
Vermeil is thicker and more durable than regular gold plating because the layer is about 2–5 times thicker, and the sterling silver base will not cause the same skin reactions as brass or nickel alloys. Vermeil lasts roughly 2 to 5 years of regular wear before the plating begins to show wear.
Vermeil is a legitimate option for people who want a gold look with a precious-metal core, but it is still plating. It is not solid gold.
How long does each type last?
| Type | Gold layer | Lifespan (daily wear) | Passes down? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solid gold (14k/18k) | Entire piece | A lifetime, and then your children's lifetime | Yes |
| Gold filled (14/20) | ~5% of weight | 10–30 years | Sometimes |
| Vermeil | 2.5+ microns on silver | 2–5 years | No |
| Gold plated | 0.17–2.5 microns | A few months to a year | No |
How can I tell if jewellery is solid gold?
There are four reliable checks you can do yourself, and one that requires a jeweller.
- Look for the karat stamp. Solid gold is stamped with its karat: 14k, 14kt, 585 (European mark for 14k = 58.5% pure), 18k, 750, or similar. Gold filled is stamped GF or 14/20 GF. Gold plated is stamped GP, HGE (heavy gold electroplate), or GEP. Vermeil is stamped 925 (sterling silver hallmark) often with an additional gold karat mark.
- Check the price. Solid 14k gold pieces below a certain price point are almost always misrepresented. A simple solid 14k chain or ring in Canada typically starts around $150–$300 CAD and scales up from there with weight. If a piece is priced far below that, it is almost certainly plated or filled.
- Check the listing language. Reputable jewellers explicitly say "solid gold." Vague language like "14k gold finish," "14k gold tone," "gold-coloured," or "gold-dipped" means plated. "Gold filled" is its own category and is usually stated clearly.
- The magnet test. Gold is not magnetic. If the piece is attracted to a strong magnet, the core is likely steel or another ferromagnetic base metal — which means it is not solid gold. (Some plated pieces are on non-magnetic brass cores, so passing the magnet test does not prove solid gold — it just rules out some fakes.)
- The acid test (jeweller only). A jeweller can test a small scratch with a nitric acid solution calibrated to different karats. Gold does not react; base metal does. This is the most definitive non-destructive test.
Is solid gold worth the extra cost?
For pieces you wear daily, yes. The cost difference between solid 14k gold and gold plated jewellery is often 5–15 times per piece. But the cost per year of wear tells a different story.
A solid 14k gold chain you wear every day for 30 years costs a fraction of its purchase price per year of use, and retains most of its metal value. A gold plated chain replaced every year for 30 years costs more in total, holds zero resale value, and often causes skin irritation before it even wears out.
Solid gold also does not need to be refinished, re-plated, or replaced because of tarnish on the inside. Gold filled and vermeil need eventual replacement. Plated needs replacement within a year.
Can solid gold tarnish?
Solid 14k and 18k gold do not tarnish in any meaningful way under normal wear. They can be dulled by lotion, sunscreen, perfume, and soap film, but a simple clean restores them. They do not oxidize to green, black, or red the way plated jewellery does as its coating wears through.
Solid 10k gold, because of its lower gold content and higher proportion of alloy metals, can develop very light surface tarnish over many years, but it is still far more stable than any plating.
Why does plated gold turn skin green?
When the thin gold layer on plated jewellery wears through, the base metal underneath — usually copper, brass, or a copper-containing alloy — reacts with skin moisture and oils. Copper oxidation produces green copper salts, which transfer to the skin. Solid gold does not cause this reaction because there is no base metal to oxidize.
Skin greening is a reliable sign that your jewellery is plated and the plating has worn through, not a sign that you have "reactive skin."
Is solid gold better for sensitive skin?
Generally, yes. Nickel is the most common cause of jewellery skin reactions — around 17% of women and 3% of men have a nickel allergy. Solid 14k and 18k gold from reputable jewellers typically use nickel-free alloys (palladium, copper, silver, zinc). Cheaper white gold and gold plated pieces often contain nickel.
If you have a known nickel allergy, ask the jeweller directly whether their pieces are nickel-free before buying. Reputable jewellers will answer plainly.
Canadian context: why "solid gold" is often misrepresented
In Canada, there is no federal law requiring that "gold" in a product description mean solid gold. A product can be marketed as "14k gold" when it is actually 14k gold plated or 14k gold filled — the fine print may disclose it, but the primary listing often does not. This is especially common on marketplace sites.
The result: Canadian buyers regularly pay solid-gold prices for plated pieces. The simplest protection is to buy from jewellers who explicitly state "solid gold" or "solid 14k" in their product descriptions and who provide karat stamps on the jewellery itself.
At Vanhess we carry two lines. Our fine jewellery line — the flagship — is Canadian-made solid gold (14k or 18k), sterling silver, and platinum, and that's what most of our studio's attention goes into. Alongside that, our fashion jewellery line offers gold-filled and gold-plated pieces for customers who want the gold look at an entry price or for trend-driven designs that aren't meant to stay in heavy rotation for decades. We do not sell vermeil. If you see "14k" on a Vanhess listing without a GF or GP qualifier, it means the entire piece is solid 14k — stamped, verifiable, and made in our Coquitlam, BC studio.
Shop Canadian-made solid 14k gold jewellery at Vanhess.
Browse solid gold →Frequently Asked Questions
Is 14k gold solid gold?
Yes, if it is labelled and stamped 14k without additional qualifiers like 'GP', 'GF', or 'plated'. Solid 14k gold is 58.3% pure gold alloyed with other metals for durability. It is not coated or plated — the gold goes all the way through the piece.
What's the difference between gold filled and solid gold?
Solid gold is entirely made of a gold alloy. Gold filled has a gold layer (minimum 5% of total weight) mechanically bonded to a base metal core, usually brass. Gold filled lasts 10–30 years before the layer wears through. Solid gold lasts a lifetime and can be passed down.
How long does gold plated jewellery last?
Gold plated jewellery typically lasts a few months to about a year of daily wear before the thin gold layer starts wearing through to the base metal. Higher-quality plating with thicker layers can last slightly longer, but all plating eventually fails because the gold layer is only 0.17–2.5 microns thick.
Is vermeil the same as gold plated?
Vermeil is a specific type of gold plating with two legal requirements: the base must be sterling silver and the gold layer must be at least 2.5 microns of 10k-or-higher gold. That makes it thicker and more durable than regular gold plating, and the silver base is gentler on skin. But it is still plating and will eventually wear through.
Can solid 14k gold tarnish?
Solid 14k gold does not tarnish under normal wear. It can be dulled by lotion, sunscreen, and soap residue, but a simple clean with warm water and mild soap restores the shine. Solid gold does not oxidize to green, black, or red the way plated jewellery does when its coating wears through.
How can I verify that jewellery is solid gold before buying?
Check for a karat stamp (14k, 18k, 585, 750) and rule out plating marks (GP, GF, HGE, GEP). Confirm the listing explicitly says 'solid gold'. Check the price — solid 14k starts around $150–$300 CAD for simple pieces. If you already own the piece, a jeweller can perform a nitric acid test to confirm the karat.