Wait until your piercing is fully healed before changing to solid gold jewellery. Healing times vary by location: earlobe 6–8 weeks, nostril 4–6 months, helix 6–12 months, daith 6–12 months, belly button 6–12 months (sometimes longer). Your piercing should feel completely normal — no tenderness, swelling, or discharge — for at least a month before you change the jewellery. Match the gauge of your starter jewellery exactly (14g for belly, 16g for cartilage, 18g–20g for nose) and size the length or diameter to how the original fits. Solid 14k gold is the preferred material for long-term piercing jewellery: it's hypoallergenic when nickel-free, doesn't corrode with skin contact, and holds up to daily wear without the re-plating or replacement required by gold plated alternatives. Vanhess makes Canadian-made solid 14k piercing jewellery for all standard piercings.
When can I change my piercing to solid gold?
Wait until the piercing is fully healed. "Fully healed" means the piercing looks and feels completely normal: no redness, no tenderness when you touch it, no discharge (clear, yellow, or white), and no visible swelling. It should also have been in that normal state consistently for at least 3–4 weeks before you change the jewellery.
Changing too early — even if the surface looks healed — can reopen the fistula (the healed channel of skin), introduce bacteria, and reset the healing process. A piercing that looks healed at 2 months might still be internally fragile for another 4–6 months, especially for cartilage and belly piercings.
A practical test: if you rotate or touch the jewellery and feel any pinching, tenderness, or "catch", the piercing isn't ready. If it moves freely and feels identical to the surrounding skin, it's ready.
Healing times by piercing location
| Piercing | Minimum heal | Full heal | Typical gauge |
|---|---|---|---|
| Earlobe | 6 weeks | 2–3 months | 20g or 18g |
| Second lobe / stacked lobes | 6–8 weeks | 2–3 months | 20g or 18g |
| Nostril | 4 months | 4–6 months | 18g or 20g |
| Septum | 6–8 weeks | 3–4 months | 14g or 16g |
| Helix (outer ear cartilage) | 6 months | 6–12 months | 16g |
| Tragus | 6 months | 6–12 months | 16g or 18g |
| Rook | 6 months | 6–12 months | 16g |
| Daith | 6 months | 6–12 months (some 12–18) | 16g |
| Conch | 6 months | 6–12 months | 16g or 14g |
| Belly button (navel) | 6 months | 6–12 months (some 12–24) | 14g |
| Nipple | 6 months | 9–12 months | 14g |
| Eyebrow | 2 months | 6–8 months | 16g |
These ranges come from standard piercing aftercare literature. Individual healing varies with your immune response, aftercare, hygiene, sleep, clothing friction, and whether the piercing gets bumped or snagged. Assume the longer end of each range and you'll rarely be disappointed.
Why solid gold is the right upgrade material
Most starter piercings use surgical steel or implant-grade titanium — both are safe for fresh piercings because they're biocompatible. Once the piercing is healed, you have more options, and solid gold (14k or 18k, nickel-free) is the gold standard for long-term wear.
- Hypoallergenic when nickel-free. Solid 14k and 18k gold using palladium-based alloys are safe for the vast majority of people. This is more comfortable than surgical steel for many people, and far safer than gold plated jewellery (which wears through to a base metal in under a year).
- Doesn't corrode. Solid gold doesn't oxidize, rust, or leach metal ions into the skin. It handles shower, sweat, and skin oils indefinitely.
- Holds up to daily wear. Unlike plated pieces, solid gold doesn't need re-plating, doesn't fade, and doesn't reveal a different metal underneath as it ages.
- Doesn't trigger migration. Migration — where the piercing slowly moves because the body is rejecting the jewellery — is rare with solid gold. It's more common with plated and cheap steel alternatives.
- Lifetime investment. A solid gold stud you buy after your piercing heals can last for the rest of the life of that piercing. A plated or filled piece will need replacement within a year.
How do I match the gauge of my starter jewellery?
Gauge is the thickness of the post or barbell that passes through your piercing. It's measured in American Wire Gauge (AWG) — smaller number = thicker post. This is counter-intuitive: a 14g post is thicker than a 20g post.
| Gauge | Millimetres | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 20g | 0.8 mm | Many nostril piercings, some lobes |
| 18g | 1.0 mm | Standard lobes, some nostrils |
| 16g | 1.2 mm | Most cartilage piercings (helix, tragus, rook, daith, conch) |
| 14g | 1.6 mm | Belly button (navel), septum, nipple, industrial |
| 12g | 2.0 mm | Stretched or oversized piercings |
If you don't know your gauge, measure the post of your current jewellery with a digital caliper (in millimetres) and match to the table above. Or ask the piercer who did the piercing — they'll have it on record. Or bring the current piece to a jeweller who can measure it.
Do not downsize the gauge. A thinner post in a healed channel can cause the piercing to shrink, which then makes reinserting the original gauge painful or impossible. Upsizing is equally problematic. Match exactly.
How do I pick the right length or diameter?
Length matters for straight posts (labrets, lobe studs, belly barbells) and diameter matters for rings and hoops (helix hoops, daith hoops, septum rings).
- Straight posts: measure the distance between where the jewellery enters and exits the skin on your current piece. Add 1 mm for comfort if you're between sizes. Too short pinches, too long dangles and catches.
- Rings and hoops: measure the inside diameter of your current hoop. Most healed cartilage piercings take an 8–10 mm inner diameter; daith and helix often use 8 mm. Belly rings use longer 10–14 mm curved barbells, not rings.
- Curved barbells (belly, eyebrow): measure the length of the curved post, not the straight-line distance.
When in doubt, bring your current jewellery to a jeweller or piercer and have them measure it before you buy the replacement.
Threaded vs threadless vs push-pin: which should I buy?
Threaded (internally or externally threaded) pieces screw together. Threadless pieces push-fit together. Push-pin pieces use a tension-fit pin without threads.
- Internally threaded: the threads are on the ball or decorative end, and the post is smooth. Preferred for healed piercings because the smooth post doesn't scrape the fistula during insertion. More expensive, higher quality.
- Externally threaded: the threads are on the post itself. Cheaper, but the threads can irritate the piercing during insertion. Avoid for cartilage and delicate piercings.
- Threadless / push-pin: fast and easy to change, with no strip-out risk. Good for frequent jewellery changes. Requires the correct post length and decorative end fit.
For daily wear, internally threaded solid gold is the safest and longest-lasting option. Threadless is excellent for people who change their jewellery often.
Common first-upgrade mistakes
- Changing jewellery too early. The biggest cause of re-injured piercings. Wait the full healing time.
- Using gold-plated for long-term or healing piercings. The plating wears through within months and exposes the base metal, which can irritate healing tissue. For long-term daily wear — and especially for any piercing still healing — solid gold is the safe choice. Plated earrings and studs from our fashion line are fine for healed piercings worn occasionally, but not as everyday jewellery in a fresh piercing.
- Guessing the gauge. Match your starter gauge exactly. If you don't know it, measure or ask the piercer.
- Picking a length that's too short. Piercings can swell mildly even after full healing (from sleep, salt, humidity). A slightly longer post is more comfortable than a tight one.
- Forcing the jewellery change yourself on a tight piercing. If the new piece won't slide in smoothly, a piercer can help — don't force it. Forcing can tear the fistula and restart healing.
- Skipping the lubricant. A tiny amount of saline or a piercer-safe lubricant makes changing jewellery much easier, especially for cartilage piercings.
Browse Canadian-made solid 14k gold piercing jewellery for every placement.
Shop piercing jewellery →Frequently Asked Questions
When can I change my piercing to solid gold?
Wait until the piercing is fully healed — no redness, tenderness, swelling, or discharge, consistently, for at least 3–4 weeks. Healing times vary: earlobes take 6–8 weeks, helix and daith take 6–12 months, belly button takes 6–12 months or longer. Changing too early can reopen the fistula and restart healing.
What gauge is a belly button piercing?
Standard belly button (navel) piercings are 14g, which is 1.6 mm thick. This thicker gauge is used because the belly piercing takes more daily movement than most piercings, and a thinner post would be more likely to migrate or reject. Always match your existing gauge when replacing jewellery.
What gauge is a helix piercing?
Most helix (outer ear cartilage) piercings are 16g, which is 1.2 mm thick. Some piercers use 14g for larger ears or specific jewellery styles. Cartilage piercings need thicker gauges than lobes because cartilage heals more slowly and a thinner post is more likely to cause irritation or migration.
Is 14k gold safe for new piercings?
Solid 14k gold with a nickel-free alloy is safe for healed piercings but is generally not recommended for fresh, unhealed piercings. For the initial healing period, implant-grade titanium or surgical steel is preferred because they are verifiably biocompatible. Once the piercing is fully healed, solid 14k becomes the preferred long-term material.
How do I know if my piercing is fully healed?
A fully healed piercing has no redness, no swelling, no tenderness when touched, and no discharge (clear, yellow, or white). It should look and feel identical to the surrounding skin. It should have been in that normal state for at least 3–4 weeks before you consider changing the jewellery. Cartilage piercings often feel healed externally long before they are fully healed internally, so follow the longer end of healing ranges.
Can I shower with my new solid gold piercing jewellery?
Yes, once the piercing is fully healed and you've swapped in the solid gold. Solid 14k and 18k gold are not damaged by water and regular shower soap. Remove jewellery before swimming in chlorinated pools or hot tubs, and avoid applying lotion or sunscreen directly to fresh jewellery. If the piercing is still healing, follow your piercer's aftercare instructions instead of general shower advice.
What's the difference between internally and externally threaded piercing jewellery?
Internally threaded jewellery has the threads on the decorative end (ball, gem, charm) and a smooth post that slides through the piercing. Externally threaded jewellery has the threads on the post itself, which can scrape the fistula during insertion. Internally threaded is preferred for healed piercings, especially cartilage, because it doesn't irritate the channel.