Fine Jewellery Types & Techniques: The Complete Visual Guide
From lost-wax casting to hand-forged bands, from pavé settings to filigree metalwork — fine jewellery encompasses centuries of refined techniques. Understanding them helps you appreciate the craftsmanship behind every piece and choose jewellery that matches your lifestyle.
Fine jewellery has been made for thousands of years, and across that span every category — rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets — has developed its own terminology, techniques, and quality tells. Understanding them makes you a smarter buyer. This guide walks through every type of fine jewellery piece we make at Vanhess Jewellery, and the techniques we use to make them — so you know exactly what you're looking at (and paying for) when you shop.
1. Rings
Rings are the most personal piece of fine jewellery. They're sized precisely to you, touched and noticed every day, and often carry lifetime meaning — which is why they require the highest level of craftsmanship.
Engagement Rings
The pinnacle of fine jewellery. Typically a solitaire diamond (or alternative stone) set in 14k or 18k solid gold or platinum. Common settings include the solitaire (single stone, prongs), halo (centre stone surrounded by smaller diamonds), three-stone (past/present/future), and vintage filigree (intricate metalwork around the stone). Browse our engagement ring collection or commission a truly unique piece through our custom ring service.
Wedding Bands
Worn every day for decades, so durability is everything. Plain polished 14k gold (men's) or matched eternity bands and diamond-accented bands (women's) are the classic choices. Platinum is the premium option — denser, more scratch-resistant, and naturally white without plating. Width and profile choices (comfort-fit vs. flat, 2mm vs. 6mm) matter more for comfort than style.
Eternity & Half-Eternity Rings
Bands set with diamonds or gemstones all the way around (eternity) or just along the top (half-eternity). Traditionally given at milestone anniversaries. Half-eternity is more practical for daily wear — the undiamond side sits against your other fingers comfortably and can be resized if needed. Full eternity rings cannot be resized without removing and resetting stones.
Cocktail & Statement Rings
Larger-stone rings (often coloured gemstones — sapphire, emerald, topaz, amethyst) designed to be noticed. Usually 18k gold for the richer colour and larger prong settings. Paired well with minimal wedding sets on the other hand.
Stackable & Daily Bands
Thin 14k bands designed to be worn with other rings. See styling advice in our styling guide. Browse the full ring collection.
2. Necklaces & Pendants
Chain Types
The chain is not a supporting player — it's half the design. Common fine-jewellery chain types include:
- Cable chain — simple interlocking oval links. Classic, affordable, works with any pendant.
- Rope chain — twisted strands forming a spiral pattern. Catches light beautifully. Stronger than it looks.
- Box chain — square links, geometric and modern. Holds pendants perfectly upright.
- Figaro chain — alternating link sizes. Italian classic; great for daily wear.
- Snake chain — smooth, flexible, rounded — like its namesake. Elegant and slinky.
- Curb chain — flattened interlocking links; substantial, often unisex.
- Herringbone — flat ribbon-like finish. Statement chain on its own; harder to repair if kinked.
Necklace Lengths
Standard fine jewellery lengths: Collar (12–13"), Choker (14–16"), Princess (17–19" — the default for most pendants), Matinee (20–24"), Opera (28–36"), Rope (40"+). Choose based on neckline — see our styling guide.
Pendants
From simple diamond solitaires to elaborate gemstone clusters. A well-made fine pendant uses the same setting techniques as a ring — prongs, bezels, or halos for stones. Browse our pendant collection.
Tennis Necklaces & Riviera Necklaces
A continuous line of diamonds (tennis) or graduated gemstones (riviera) running around the collar. The most iconic fine-jewellery necklace style — and one of the single strongest indicators that someone is wearing real, certified stones.
Initial & Monogram Necklaces
Personalised solid-gold letter pendants are one of our most popular categories for gifts. See our letter collection or commission a custom monogram.
3. Earrings
Studs
The workhorse of fine jewellery. Diamond or gemstone solitaires in prong or bezel settings. Pearl studs. Small solid-gold shapes. A pair of diamond studs is one of the most practical fine-jewellery investments a person can make.
Hoops
Huggies (small, close-fitting), standard medium hoops, and oversized statement hoops. Solid gold hoops maintain their shape; plated hoops collapse out of round quickly. Our earring collection has options across all sizes.
Drops & Dangles
Any earring with movement below the ear — from subtle teardrop diamonds to dramatic chandelier designs. Perfect for formal events and date nights.
Ear Climbers & Cuffs
Modern styles that hug or climb the ear. Work beautifully mixed with traditional studs for the multi-piercing look — see our styling guide for combinations.
4. Bracelets
Chain Bracelets
The bracelet equivalent of chain necklaces — same link styles (cable, rope, box, figaro) in shorter lengths. Sizing typically 6.5–8 inches for women, 7.5–9 for men.
Bangles & Cuffs
Rigid circular (bangle) or open C-shape (cuff) pieces. Often in 14k or 18k solid gold. Stack with chain bracelets for a dimensional look.
Tennis Bracelets
A single continuous line of diamonds (or coloured gemstones) running around the wrist. An iconic fine-jewellery piece — and a recognisable signal of real stones to anyone who knows jewellery.
Charm Bracelets
A traditional fine-jewellery format that's been updated for the modern era. Add solid-gold charms over time to commemorate milestones — births, trips, achievements. The bracelet becomes a wearable memory book.
Browse our full bracelet collection.
5. Piercing Jewellery
Once a piercing is healed, it's time to upgrade from stainless starter jewellery to solid gold. The difference is dramatic — real solid gold is biocompatible, doesn't tarnish, and looks exponentially better than plated alternatives. Our piercing collection is designed specifically for healed piercings (lobes, helix, tragus, nose, septum). For guidance on when to switch, see our piercing jewellery upgrade guide.
6. Fine Jewellery Techniques
The technique a jeweller uses determines how the piece looks, how long it lasts, and how much it should cost. Here are the techniques behind every piece we sell.
Casting
Most modern fine jewellery begins as a wax model, which is cast in solid gold or platinum using the lost-wax process. Molten metal is poured into a ceramic mould where the wax used to be, creating an exact metal replica. The raw casting is then filed, polished, and set with stones by hand. Casting allows precise repeatable design — every piece in a production run is identical — while still being real solid precious metal. This is how most of our collection is made.
Hand-Forging
The oldest technique in jewellery — a sheet or rod of gold is hammered, bent, and shaped by hand at the bench. Hand-forged pieces have slight variations from piece to piece (no two are perfectly identical), a denser feel because of the work-hardening, and often bear a subtle hammered texture as a signature. Mehran's hand-forged work combines techniques he learned during his training in India and Thailand with contemporary design.
Setting Techniques
How a stone is held onto metal is one of the most important variables in fine jewellery — setting quality determines whether a stone stays put for decades or falls out in a year.
- Prong setting — small metal claws grip the stone. Classic for solitaire engagement rings. Shows maximum light through the stone but requires inspection every 6–12 months (which we offer free).
- Bezel setting — a rim of metal wraps around the stone's edge. The most secure setting; great for active lifestyles. Shows slightly less light than prongs but nearly impossible to lose a stone.
- Pavé setting — tiny stones set very close together in a "pavement" of diamonds. Creates a shimmering surface. Requires extremely skilled work.
- Channel setting — stones lined up between two parallel walls of metal. Common in eternity bands and tennis bracelets. Very secure.
- Tension setting — the stone is held only by the pressure of the metal on either side. Dramatic modern look. Requires very precise work.
Filigree
Intricate lace-like metalwork formed from twisted fine wires of gold or silver. Historically used in Georgian, Edwardian, and Art Deco designs; still hand-made today for vintage-inspired engagement rings. Filigree is extremely labour-intensive and is a strong marker of true craftsmanship.
Milgrain
A decorative edge made of tiny beads of metal running along the border of a piece. Traditional vintage detail, done by hand with a specialised wheel tool. Adds an heirloom quality to modern designs.
Engraving & Personalisation
Hand engraving — a skilled jeweller carves text, initials, or decorative patterns directly into the metal with fine cutters. Available on most of our solid gold pieces; it's what transforms a ring into a wearable family story. Ask us about engraving options when you purchase.
Finishing Techniques
High polish — the mirror-bright finish most fine jewellery has. Satin / matte — brushed finish with a soft sheen. Hammered — textured by hand with a forging hammer; no two pieces identical. Florentine — a textured crosshatched finish, Italian style. A jeweller can usually refresh any of these finishes during a polish service.
7. Technique Comparison Table
| Technique | Skill Level | Typical Use | Price Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cast (lost-wax) | Mid | Most modern rings, pendants | Baseline |
| Hand-forged | Expert | Custom rings, heirloom bands | 20–60% premium |
| Pavé setting | Expert | Halo rings, tennis bracelets | Stone-dependent |
| Filigree | Master | Vintage-inspired engagement rings | 30–80% premium |
| Hand engraving | Expert | Personalised bands, bracelets | +$50–$300 |
| Milgrain edging | Expert | Vintage-style rings | 10–25% premium |
8. Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between cast and hand-forged?
Cast jewellery is made from a wax model that becomes a metal replica — precise, repeatable, and the standard for most modern fine jewellery. Hand-forged jewellery is shaped directly from a bar or sheet of metal by a jeweller with hammers and files — each piece slightly unique, and usually denser because the hammering compacts the metal grain. Hand-forged commands a premium because it takes many more hours per piece.
Is a prong setting or bezel setting better for my engagement ring?
Prong settings let more light through the diamond, producing more sparkle — but the prongs can wear down and need re-tipping every 10–15 years (or sooner with heavy wear). Bezel settings are more secure — the stone is surrounded by a protective metal rim — but show slightly less light. For people with active hands (nurses, teachers, athletes), bezel or low-profile prongs (like a basket setting) are smarter. For a purely decorative ring, high-set prongs maximise sparkle. Book a consultation with Mehran to talk through which is right for your lifestyle.
Can I custom-design a piece from scratch?
Yes — it's one of our specialties. Through our custom ring service we work with you on sketches, then CAD renderings, then a wax model you approve, before casting in 14k, 18k, or platinum. The process typically takes 4–6 weeks. Custom doesn't cost dramatically more than off-the-shelf — the metal and stone are the same price; you're paying for a few additional hours of design work.
What makes a fine jewellery piece "heirloom quality"?
Four things: (1) real precious metal (solid gold, platinum) that doesn't degrade. (2) Natural or certified lab stones of decent quality. (3) Secure settings — prongs that won't weaken, bezels that won't loosen. (4) A timeless design that won't look dated in 20 years. Most of our collection meets this bar by default; when we build custom pieces, it's an explicit design goal.
Made at the Bench
From Classic to Custom
Every technique in this guide is something we do in-house. Browse our curated collection, or bring us a sketch and we'll make it real.