Asscher Cut Diamonds: The Art Deco Step Cut
An asscher cut diamond is a square step cut with cropped corners and a deep, hypnotic look people call the "hall of mirrors." Think of it as the square cousin of the emerald cut: same calm, glassy reflections, same clean lines, but in a square outline with a striking X pattern down the centre. It is the shape for anyone drawn to Art Deco and quiet elegance over flashy sparkle.
The asscher has a real history. It was designed by the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam in the early 1900s and became a signature of the Art Deco era. We set them at our Coquitlam bench for people who want vintage character. Here is how the shape behaves.
A square step cut
Like the emerald cut, the asscher is a step cut. Its facets run in long parallel lines that step down into the stone, giving broad flashes of light and dark rather than tiny sparkles. The difference is the outline: the asscher is square, with corners cropped so evenly that the shape looks almost octagonal. Look straight down into a good one and you see concentric squares drawing your eye to the centre, with an X where the corner facets meet. That is the hall of mirrors, and it is the whole appeal.
This is the opposite personality to a brilliant cut like the radiant, which sparkles brightly. If you want fire, the asscher is not your stone. If you want a deep, clean, architectural look, it is exactly right.
Buy the clarity and colour up
Step cuts hide almost nothing. The open, mirror-like facets show any inclusion and any hint of body colour, so the grades that matter most shift upward. On an asscher I steer buyers toward VS1 clarity or better and a whiter colour, so the stone stays clean and bright to the eye. Clarity is graded by the GIA on an eleven-point scale from Flawless to I3. Buy the stone in person or on video and look through the table before committing. Cut quality drives beauty most of all, as the American Gem Society explains, and a well-cut asscher has crisp, even, symmetrical steps.
Durable by design
The cropped corners are a practical bonus. Because an asscher has no sharp points, there is no fragile tip to chip, unlike a princess cut. Diamond is already a 10 on the Mohs scale, the hardest natural material, as the GIA describes, and the asscher's clipped corners make it one of the sturdier shapes for everyday wear. A four-prong setting that grips each corner holds it securely and shows off the outline.
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Outline | Square with cropped corners |
| Cut style | Step cut, glassy hall-of-mirrors look |
| Sparkle | Broad flashes, not bright fire |
| Hides inclusions? | No, shows most things |
| Clarity we suggest | VS1 or better |
| Durability | High, no sharp corners |
Who an asscher suits
An asscher suits someone with vintage or Art Deco taste who prefers depth and clean lines to sparkle. It looks its best in simple settings that frame the square: a plain solitaire, a geometric Deco-style mount, or a halo of small step-cut stones. Because a step cut shows everything, this is not the shape to cut corners on quality. Buy a smaller, cleaner asscher rather than a larger, included one, and it will look far better on the hand.
Key Takeaways
- An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners and a deep hall-of-mirrors look.
- It gives calm, glassy flashes rather than bright sparkle, the square version of an emerald cut.
- Its open facets show inclusions and colour, so buy VS1 or better and a whiter grade.
- The cropped corners make it durable, with no fragile points to chip.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between an asscher and an emerald cut?
Both are step cuts with the same glassy look, but the shape differs. An emerald cut is a rectangle, longer than it is wide. An asscher is a square with more sharply cropped corners and a deeper, more three-dimensional hall-of-mirrors effect. Choose by whether you want a rectangle or a square.
Do asscher cut diamonds sparkle?
Not the way a brilliant cut does. An asscher gives broad flashes of light and dark and a deep mirror-like look, not tiny points of fire. People choose it precisely for that restrained, architectural style. If you want lots of sparkle, a radiant or round suits you better.
What clarity should I choose for an asscher cut?
VS1 or better. Because the step-cut facets are open and mirror-like, they show inclusions and colour that a brilliant cut would hide. A higher clarity and a whiter colour keep the stone looking clean. Always check it is eye-clean in person or on video.
Are asscher cut diamonds durable?
Yes. Diamond is a 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, and the asscher's cropped corners mean there is no sharp point to chip. With a secure four-prong setting, it holds up well to daily wear, more reliably than a pointed shape like a princess cut.
Sources
- GIA — The 4Cs of Diamond Quality (cut and clarity grading)
- GIA — Diamond Description (hardness and properties)
- American Gem Society — Diamond Cut
Data sourced 19 July 2026. If you spot something out of date, tell us and we will update the guide.
Visit Vanhess
We are a family-run studio at 2929 Barnet Highway, Unit 2424 in Coquitlam, with an on-site goldsmith and over a thousand of our own designs. Come look into an asscher's hall of mirrors in daylight, or call us at +1 (604) 653-6449. Browse our engagement rings to start.
